Always Ancient, Always New – Walking Through Jerusalem

Jerusalem is so contradictory. For all its deep, tangled historical roots and self-conscious cosmopolitan air,  it’s still a small town. Sometimes, climbing onto a crowded bus during rush hour, squeezing past old folks laden with bulging shopping bags and tired soldiers talking into cellphones, hoping you’ll find at least a standing space with some elbow [...]

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Jerusalem on Passover

We took a little trip to Jerusalem on Monday of Passover week. Folks who have visited the Israel Museum will recognize this horseman. Most of the Museum is closed off for renovations, but the Shrine of the Book, the replica of Solomon’s Temple and the Youth Wing, as well as part of the gardens, are [...]

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Eating The Wild Weeds and Licking The Fingers at Little Eucalyptus Restaurant

“I want to show you that food in Israel isn’t all choumous and falafel,” said Chef Sufyan.
My sister and I looked at the table, which was covered with intriguing herbs both fresh and dried, a platter of spices and grains, an old-fashioned mortar and pestle, slim bottles containing -surely – something magical.

“Mallows, kitchen sage, Jerusalem [...]

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Open-Air Market: Shuk Mahaneh Yehudah, Jerusalem

I lived in Jerusalem for 14 years once, but I’m almost a stranger there now. New roads, changes in bus routes, old shops closed down, new shops open, and above all, the maddening construction of the light rail, a great useless trench in the middle of Yaffo Road. Buses and cars must travel squeezed to [...]

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